Back to the Beginning ‑ Berlin

In June 2018, I cycle to Thomas-Mann-Straße in Ber­lin. In my diary, I’ll write after­wards: ”Idea for monu­ment takes shape: street signs.“ The vis­it is about gath­er­ing ideas, get­ting inspir­a­tion from the loc­a­tion. I had seen that there was a swim­ming pool named after Thomas Mann there, and I had many asso­ci­ations: swim­ming, waves, water, Death in Venice

The street is loc­ated in former East Ber­lin, in Pren­zlauer­berg, branch­ing off from Gre­if­swalder Straße. It was named after Thomas Mann in 1976, dur­ing the GDR era. This loc­a­tion can also be seen in terms of memory polit­ics in the oth­er street names, in Man­n’s neigh­bors: the name of the com­poser Hanns Eisler is affixed to the same post. Like Mann, he fled Nation­al Social­ism and emig­rated to the USA. The two knew each oth­er, met in exile, and had some sim­il­ar interests, e.g. in the Faust mater­i­al. In this respect, their spa­tial prox­im­ity makes sense. Bey­ond Gre­if­swalder Straße, the street con­tin­ues as Erich-Wein­ert-Straße, named after the writer who fled to the Soviet Uni­on dur­ing the Nazi regime and took on offi­cial roles in the GDR after his return.

Thomas Mann, whose polit­ic­al pos­i­tion was not entirely straight­for­ward, some­where between con­ser­vat­ism and social­ism, is thus placed in a con­text of left-wing, anti-fas­cist cul­tur­al fig­ures. In every city, as research and travel will show, this con­text looks dif­fer­ent, some­times it is inter­na­tion­al fel­low writers, such as Gust­ave Flaubert and George Sand in Rome, some­times it is the fam­ily circle, as in Munich with Hein­rich Mann. These con­nec­tions and neigh­bor­hoods are part of the cul­ture of remem­brance. Street signs and the names on them express appreciation—but also polit­ic­al pos­i­tions and the men­tal­ity of the time.

A street name stands apart from such con­scious arrange­ments in the every­day urb­an envir­on­ment, but is influ­enced and over­laid by it. This res­ults in bizarre rela­tion­ships; in Ber­lin, for example, the street name stands in the shad­ow of a huge red arrow with a phar­macy sign. One might asso­ci­ate lit­er­at­ure with a remedy.

Street signs are primar­ily func­tion­al signs, used for ori­ent­a­tion and to indic­ate an address. In Ber­lin, house num­bers are loc­ated below the name sign in order to divide a street into sec­tions. When you remove it from this func­tion­al con­text, isol­ate it, I later real­ize, its memory func­tion becomes clearer.

The typo­graph­ic design is also inter­est­ing: black on white, in con­trast to the white on blue vari­ant used in most cit­ies, such as Munich; a sans serif font, which con­veys aus­ter­ity and a cer­tain harsh­ness. The font is eleg­ant, with the sharp-angled ‘ß’. This is a New Objectiv­ity sans serif font from the 1920s, thus dur­ing Thomas Man­n’s lifetime …

The writ­ing, but also the mater­i­al­ity and con­di­tion of the signs, reveal their his­tor­icity. They weath­er, dust accu­mu­lates, black marks form, the sun bleaches the let­ter­ing, which has almost dis­ap­peared on one sign, and is barely legible, like inscrip­tions on old gravestones.

On the way back, I pass a cemetery in Mitte, the Old Gar­ris­on Cemetery, where years ago, bey­ond the cemetery wall, I saw a pile of street signs that had been dis­mantled for a con­struc­tion site. I remem­ber this now and look for pho­tos I had taken back then, in 2008.

And the idea ger­min­ates that an install­a­tion with street signs could be a memori­al to the Manns. But first I want to find oth­er streets named after the Manns in oth­er cities.